How To Install Uv Sterilizer In Pond
The purpose of this article is to provide basic answers to the almost common questions asked about the utilise of a UV Sterilizer in Aquariums
Much of this information is courtesy of:
"UV Sterilizer Apply & Data, A to Z"
This commodity linked to above is probably the most in depth and accurate commodity on the field of study of aquarium UV sterilizer use I accept read anywhere.
The author of the above article is one of the leading authorities on this bailiwick with a considerable amount of easily on experience using and even designing truthful UV Sterilizers also as UV Clarifiers which are commonly marketed as UV Sterilizers.
Readers will as well note that information technology is ofttimes updated also, making for the near current information.
A UV Sterilizer is a germicidal filtration device that uses UV-C Sterilization to filter the water resulting in clarification, lower disease pathogens, and removal of oxidizers in the h2o cavalcade resulting in improved Redox in your aquarium or pond.
A correctly installed and well designed TRUE level 1 or two capable UV Sterilizer can kill nigh suspended bacteria and many viruses in the water column, while non affecting bacterial colonies in filter media and substrate.
As well a UV Sterilizer/Clarifier can clear green/cloudy water in aquariums or ponds.
Meet this link for one source: UV Sterilizer/Clarifiers
A QUALITY UV-C Steriliser too improves the Redox Residual in an aquarium or pond by lowering oxidizers and thus oxidative stress in the h2o column which in plow improves the fish' ability to fight illness.
A UV sterilizer aids in the control of parasites such as Ich or Cryptocaryon by improving immune function and affliction resistance (via Redox). At very depression flows (under 8-12 gph per watt) a UV Sterilizer can more than directly assistance in parasite control of parasites in the h2o column.
Unfortunately many UV Sterilizers do not fairly meliorate Redox balance by lowering oxidizers in the h2o column that tin can be dangerous to fish over fourth dimension.
This is due to insufficient 254nm UVC exposure inside the unit of measurement from poorly designed units along with incorrect flow fourth dimension and use of poor UVC generating medium pressure UV bulbs that about lower cost UVs commonly sold by discounters now use and so equally to continue the price down. This unfortunately common with many of the low cost models fabricated in Cathay and sold by discounters which in plough then give true UV Sterilizers a bad proper name.
The picture above provides a visual of how a Truthful UV-C Sterilizer breaks downwardly oxidizers, which are negatively charged ions (anions) in the water column. This in turn reduces oxidative stress on fish.
Likewise see this article for avant-garde aquarium keepers:
Aquarium Redox Remainder
A pump pushes the water through the UV Sterilizer at a specific flow rate, where the water volition come in contact with the UV-C producing calorie-free either straight or indirectly via a quartz sleeve.
The UV Low-cal then sterilizes the h2o past altering the DNA of organic affair as well as "clumping algae" in the h2o, and it is returned to your tank or pond.
Click on the moving-picture show to the left to enlarge
Your menses charge per unit is dependent on the level of sterilization yous want from your tank. The slower the water moves beyond a UV bulb that is intended primarily for UVC production; the more time UV-C is in contact with the water. The slower the rate, the more than sterilization you can reach.
This goes hand in hand with a turnover charge per unit.
Your turnover charge per unit is the rate at which all your aquarium h2o is filtered in an 60 minutes. For UV Sterilization, y'all want a turnover rate of at least 1 1/two times per hour. So if you lot have a x gallon tank, you want a turnover charge per unit of at least xv GPH. This will attain level one sterilization when combined with the correct flow rate assuming other criteria are met too.
Meet this resources for more: UV Sterilization; Turnover Rate
The menses rate is the near important factor and along with turnover are easy factors to measure out.
Withal, while flow rate is probably the most important, probably the next most important gene is not turnover, rather it is water turbidity which includes pre-filtration.
With high water turbidity due to poor or no pre-filtration, the flow rate tin can literally demand to be cut in half to achieve rated functioning. Or looking at it another manner, a UV Sterilizer/Clarifier rated for a 100 gallon aquarium [or pond] might merely be effective for a fifty gallon aquarium!
The problem is water turbidity is non every bit readily measured, thus is not generally included in formulas.
The all-time way to ensure your water is optimally pre-filtered is to make sure to run the UV Sterilizer after a good filter, including a simple pump pre-filter such every bit using the AAP Filter Max.
Nonetheless most UVs now sold via discount websites also as brick & mortar stores do not include much of anything when it comes to pre-filtration. When combined with depression output medium Pressure lamps and poor design such as the gap betwixt the UV lamp and quartz sleeve and the containment wall; the consequence is a UV Sterilizer with as low every bit i/four OR LESS of what many formulas rate for flow rate!
Other factors include:
- A water temperature between twenty C (68 F) and twoscore C (104 F)
- A gap of iii cm or less between the seedling or quartz sleeve and the wall of the unit
- A reasonable dwell time, as most low toll, filter equipped UVs, and submersible UVs accept poor dwell time
- A GOOD h2o flow pattern inside the aquarium or swimming.
- A make clean Quartz sleeve/lamp
The above is quoted from this resource: UV Sterilization; Catamenia Charge per unit & Turnover Rate Table
There is #Clarification, #Level one, and #Level two
Description is about 40-65 gph per watt with a good to first-class UV Sterilizer using a HO depression pressure UV lamp.
This achieves Green water control in both Aquarium and Pond. This is the most popular awarding for ponds.
Level 1 Sterilization is about twenty-35 gph per watt with proficient to excellent UV Sterilizer using a HO depression pressure level UV lamp [many poorly designed Chinese UVs with low output UVC lamps would bee to be slowed to a ten gph or simply to accomplish level i sterilization].
This helps with Bacteria and some Virus's. Level One is the near common & recommended aquarium application.
Level two Sterilization is nigh 8-12 gph per watt good to excellent UV Sterilizer using a HO low pressure UV lamp [not at all possible with virtually usually sold disbelieve UVs coming out of Mainland china & sold via Amazon & eBay].
This helps with Parasites and "Stubborn" Viruses. This is recommended for Pond Pools (albeit generally impractical) and similar applications.
These flow rates for each level are as well impacted by water turnover, UV-C Penetration, amidst other factors.
For economy UV sterilizers with poor dwell time, or using medium pressure UV lamps which produce simply 25% of the needed UVC irradiation, the menstruation rates required can exist equally much every bit four to viii times lower which is why well-nigh of these $lx or less UVs commonly sold via discounters are really only proficient for clarification, Non sterilization.
Run into this article section for more: Menstruation Rate & Turnover Rate Table
These flow rates tin can vary greatly by UV Sterilizer blueprint, with many poor quality UV Sterilizers not being capable of level 1 or 2 sterilization at all, this is especially common with the many "Hang-On" and submersible models sold for under $threescore usd.
VIDEO: Best Aquarium and Pond UV Sterilizer for the Toll
Levels achieved by a UV Sterilizers are depending on the quality/design of the UV, wattage of UV, and catamenia rate created by a pump. The correct pump for your tank/pond size and correct sterilizer are required for authentic sterilizing levels. Ball Valves tin can also be used to tedious h2o flow if pumps gph is higher than required. This is to accomplish optimum period.
See also this resource for more: Pump Specifications
For ball valves, here is one source: Aquarium Plumbing Parts; Ball Valves
Yes and No
The apply of a UV Sterilizer volition NOT directly touch on ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, GH, pH, KH; and then the use of a UV Sterilizer should non be considered as either a positive or negative to affect these parameters.
However a properly installed and well designed UV Sterilizer will lower organics in the h2o cavalcade, then this can indirectly affect KH levels.
As well the use of properly installed and well designed UV Sterilizer can more directly affect the Redox Residual by reacting with oxidants in the water column, which in turns lowers oxidizing stressors to fish or other inhabitants.
A UV can also lower the level of many antibiotics in the h2o during treatment, then turning the UV Sterilizer off during treatment is often best.
If a Aquarium keeper has a general knowledge of sterilizers and has overcome the showtime set-upward of their UV Sterilizer, it should go very easy to maintain. Other than replacing UV bulbs every six months (& perchance cleaning the quartz sleeves if role of the UV), there is no real maintenance that is required.
If a UV sterilizer is set up correctly, it volition clear up your aquarium/swimming in a matter of hours/days and no over activity from the keeper is needed.
Run into this web page for high efficiency, true UVC Bulbs: High Output UV Bulbs Page one from AAP
Merely put, there are three categories of UV Sterilizer:
Category A , which have the highest dwell time, the highest UVC efficiency and output, and oftentimes are the longest lived too. These UV Sterilizers can about readily 'hit' level ane or 2 sterilization and practise so with higher flow rates than a Category B UV.
Unfortunately few UVs now sold are Category A, which was not the instance a couple decades back, merely with social media, discounters, etc., the lower cost Category B & C units have come up to dominate.
Examples of Category A UVs include the AAP/TMC Vecton & Advantage UV Sterilizer and the Aqua Ultraviolet UV Sterilizer [the AAP existence the better value].
Category B , these are however a "True" level ane or fifty-fifty sometimes level two capable UV. These UV Sterilizers just accept lower flow rates to do so, often resulting a highest wattage unit to practice the aforementioned job every bit a Category A. These Category B UVs also tend to me much less durable
There are still a few Category B bachelor. Examples of Category B UVs include the AAP/TMC Terminator & Submersible UV Sterilizer, Tetra, and the Coralife Turbo Twist [the AAP again being the better value].
Category C , These are now the dominant UV Sterilizer on the marketplace now and in fact these are not Truthful UV Sterilizers, rather UV Clarifiers since they basically have no real ability to 'striking' level one or two sterilization, rather only Clarification.
Examples include the popular Aquarium Killing Machine, AquaTop Hang on Back UVs, near not upgraded Chinese made UVs sold past discounters, and nigh all submersibles.
For further reading: UV Sterilization; Facts & Information; Categories
VIDEO:
Aqua Swimming UV vs TMC AAP Pond UV Clarifier Sterilizer
The simple respond is NO, just this must be qualified in that this applies to a healthy, cycled aquarium.
Fifty-fifty "practiced" aerobic leaner constitute in your bio filters can exist a problem when bio loads or other factors cause a "bacterial bloom" in the aquarium water, resulting in a white or grey "cloud". A UV Sterilizer will kill these bacteria when in the water column (free floating).
Nevertheless in a healthy established aquarium, aerobic nitrifying bacteria should and will exist institute in the bio filters, substrate, live stone, etc.; NOT in the water cavalcade. Therefore, it is impossible for a UV Sterilizer to remove these beneficial bacterium.
As with the above question, the uncomplicated answer is aye.
Still if you are seasoning 'dead' stone such every bit so-called live rock that was just imported or yous are using sterile/quarried calcium based rock (or Aragocrete), it is all-time to turn off your UV for a few weeks.
In one case your aquarium and live rock is established, the nitrifying and de-nitrifying bacteria will and should not exist in the h2o column, only in your live rock. So UV Sterilization is safe and in fact should be used 24/7 other than turning off for a couple hours when dosing with live products such as live planktonic algae or infusoria.
See these resources:
Aragocrete; Homemade Live Eco Friendly Rock
More UV Sterilizer Questions, Myths Answered
This depends upon the design, simply in general the answer is an emphatic NO, at least with all under $lx usd units often sold by Amazon or eBay!
The trouble is the chamber where the UV-C irradiation/sterilization reacts with the water oft has too high a flow rate along with as well large a gap between the UV wall and lamp/sleeve, resulting in poor dwell time.
See: Water Period, Dwell/ Exposure Time; UV Sterilization Levels
As well, many of these Submersible UV Sterilizers have a very short lifespan due to ballast failures (one, the Killing Auto even requires replacement of the ballast when replacing the UV Lamp). Unfortunately well-nigh online reviews (Amazon, etc.) do not reverberate expert long term usage and only study initial results.
Finally Amazon and other bargain sellers will sell similar models [such every bit by SunSun], but these are stripped downwardly, without essential pre-filters needed for lowering h2o turbidity for higher UVC efficiency, as well these models are Non adapted for correct UVC flow rates.
Avert these low price Hang On UVs, Elevator Tube "Category C" UVs, and small self powered UVs often peddled by those in the aquarium industry that give the industry a "black eye".
Virtually the only only reasonably effective submersible UV Sterilizer is the AAP CUP Serial xiii Watt, along with a few other exact duplicates that include adequate pre-filtration, a low pressure HO UV lamp, and the correct flow rate.
Even then these should just be considered an economy UV Sterilizer for those on a budget and desiring simplicity (these still cost more than the not level 1 sterilization models previously noted).
See this product listing: Cup Series Submersible UV Filters from AAP
Recommend further reading; References:
*Internal, Submersible UV Sterilizer Filter, Pump; Review
*Dark-green Killing Auto, Submariner UV Review
*UV Sterilizers Gimmicks; 'Turbo' Twists, Baffles Wipers
Every bit noted in the last section, an inline UV Sterilizer is all-time. This should exist installed after your filter as the less particles your UV has to get through the meliorate results you will take. Likewise, installing your UV after your filters allows the filters to accept the best possible bio filtration.
Encounter:
UV Sterilizer Examples
While there are several well designed UV Sterilizers available, most are often far more expensive than the low quality UVs that produce little or no level i sterilization of which these should be avoided.
A uncomplicated tip would be to avoid Any UV Sterilizer under $60 (US dollars), none of these take even shut to adequate dwell times to perform level i or level 2 sterilization.
See: UV Sterilizer Dwell Time Test
For the all-time true level 1 and/or 2 UV Sterilization with high dwell fourth dimension, your best bet are the AAP/TMC Vecton and Advantage UV Sterilizers amid a few others such every bit Aqua UVs.
Run into this product listing for a professional person site selling these: AAP/TMC UV Sterilizer, Premium High Dwell Time UVC Sterilization
Here is an excellent video about the AAP Vecton by ReefGrrl that many might notice very helpful as well:
Got UV? I Do! Let Me Tell Y'all a Fiddling Fleck Most Information technology
The AAP Terminator UV is a "expert" UV Sterilizer, and in fact among the best of the "Compact" UVs, although the pop compact pattern is non as good a design every bit the high dwell time straight tube such as the AAP/TMC. Other good compact UVs includes the Tetra, albeit over priced.
Beware of the Jebo, AquaTop, and Turbo Twist, and the plethora of depression quality so-chosen UVs sold on Amazon.com, equally despite proficient marketing, these have poor life spans or little to no level 1 sterilization equally per many professionals who have used these units and were consulted for this article.
It is unfortunate that many discount UV Sterilizers sold via Amazon, eBay, etc.; even with the aforementioned model model number come with depression output medium pressure depression output UV lamps/bulbs that have merely 1/4 the output of a depression pressure HO UV bulb/lamp. What many do non understand is that every bit a retailer or distributor, one can order these UVs from China at a lower/cheaper cost by getting a stripped downward version.
The end result is a UV or replacement lamp that is good for clarification at best and even then not very good at this either.
See the next section well-nigh UV lamps/bulbs for more, including fantabulous references!
Come across this product listing: AAP/SunSun Terminator Aquarium UV Sterilizer with HO UVC Lamps
Generally speaking for optimum Sterilization the UV Seedling should be changed every six months for an aquarium.
For a swimming every 12 months in cool climates and vi months for warm climates.
As for the replacement seedling itself, this tin can be a bit more difficult since information technology seems everyone and their brother are now selling these on the internet [including Amazon & eBay], as well as some Abode Comeback Stores.
Nonetheless many, if not most of these bulbs sold at these locations are Not truthful depression pressure, hot cathode UVC bulbs which provide the optimum output and efficiency, even though one eBay seller in particular has taken to copying the information from another online seller that sells true high output UVC bulbs/lamps.
This is particularly problematic with many of the Compact UV Bulbs at present sold such as the 5, 9, & 18 Watt UV bulbs, lamps which are sold for less than it cost to produce the better quality truthful UVC bulbs.
If the price seems besides good to exist truthful such as $5.99 or even $9.99, you are probable getting a "smash curing" UV lamp, not a true loftier output low pressure UV lamp/bulb, despite what the sellers eBay or Amazon listing might say.
A quick comparing of the UV Bulbs/lamps reveals the deviation.
Reference: 9 Watt UV Replacement Seedling/Lamp Review
The diagram/picture show above demonstrates why is is and then of import to buy the right UV replacement seedling/lamp.
Even many new low price so called UV Sterilizers, which in reality are at best clarifiers are supplied with these lower cost medium pressure level UV Bulbs. With the price just to produce a quality low pressure UV Seedling, chances are ANY UV Sterilizer advertised new for under $lx is going to contain these lower output bulbs.
What to wait for?
- Price for ane, you cannot become a true low force per unit area hot cathode 9 watt UVC bulb for under $10 (or likely under $12). When the manufactured cost of a HO 9 Watt lamp is $10 usd, a retailer CANNOT sell these for $10 or even $12
- Does the seller even merits that their bulb is a depression pressure hot cathode UVC germicidal bulb/lamp?
- The nine Watt and 18 Watt UVC germicidal bulbs/lamps now can be found with a patented metal heat shield, which among other things lowers the amount of energy lost to heat and thus increases efficiency. These though tin be difficult to find in most locations, merely are well worth looking for and purchasing due to their extreme high efficiency.
Please Reference:
#nine Watt UV Bulb, Review
#18 Watt UV Seedling, Review
#UV Bulb Video, What to Await for
Or for sources to purchase a Truthful low pressure level, hot cathode UVC Bulbs:
#High Output Compact UV Replacement Bulbs/Lamps (such as the popular nine Watt HO UV Replacement Seedling)
#Loftier Output T5/T8 Straight Tube UV Replacement Bulbs/Lamps (such as the pop Laguna 11 Watt UV Replacement bulb)
Source: https://www.fishbeginner.info/home/aquarium-uv-sterilizer-use/
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